Last week we made our first trip south, beyond the Dead Sea, to explore some of the wilderness of the mountains bordering the Great Rift Valley. We spent three days hiking in the wadis of the Dana Biosphere, Jordan’s largest nature reserve, a spectacular landscape of towering cliffs and deep valleys. With no foreign visitors in Jordan during these Covid days, and few other domestic tourists, we virtually had the place to ourselves.
Created in 1993, the Dana Biosphere Reserve protects 320 square kms of exceptionally diverse habitats. The terrain drops 1500m, from a high plateau to the sun-scorched plains of the Wadi Araba, crossing four different bio-geographical zones and three climate zones. The higher slopes of the mountains are shaded by Mediterranean woodland; at their feet, it is Arabian desert. The underlying geology is also varied, with layers of granite, limestone, and dark red sandstone.
Over 800 plant species can be found in the reserve, some of which grow nowhere else in the world. Dana is also home to numerous species of birds, reptiles, and mammals, including a number that are endangered. We didn’t catch sight of the Nubian Ibex or Syrian Wolf on this visit, but we did see some reptiles and amphibians (easy to photograph) and many unusual kinds of birds (not so easy to photograph!)
Dana Biosphere has been developed as a model of integrated conservation, aiming to balance the preservation of nature with the needs of the Bedouin and other local communities. An emphasis has also been placed on sustainable tourism. The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN), which manages the reserve, has received several international awards in recognition of its careful work here.
Our weekend visit began at Dana Village, a cluster of stone houses clinging to a terrace high above the wadi. Until recently, the village lay in ruins, largely abandoned because of rural depopulation. But it is gradually being rebuilt and brought back to life.
The views from here are stunning. You can see the full length of the valley as it runs in a straight line for 15km to the plains below, a landscape of immense scale and rocky grandeur.
We spent the afternoon exploring the village and the head of the valley, a wooded area with olive orchards, evergreen oaks, and pine trees. White broom is in flower, filling the air with its sweet fragrance.
Dana has several hostels, and a campsite with pre-pitched tents, but with few tourists these days, the place is largely deserted. We stayed at RSCN’s guesthouse – comfortable without being luxurious. We had arranged to meet a couple of friends here, who had driven to the other end of the valley and walked up to Dana during the day. We then swapped car keys with them, which avoided either group having to double back to the start of the hike. However, it is possible to organise for your car to be driven to the other end of the route if that is a preferable option.
The next morning the three of us set off on the hike, down Wadi Dana. The route starts with a steep descent on a zig-zag path to get to the valley floor. There is little shade in the valley, only the occasional acacia tree. It is warm at this time of year, but not unbearably so. The best times of year to do the hike are March and April, or in October and November.
We then followed the dry bed of the wadi, between soaring cliffs of red sandstone. In the lower stretches of the valley these cliffs have been carved by the wind into an elaborate tracery of ribs and cavities.
The hike took about 6 hours in all, going at a leisurely pace. Our destination was the Feynan Ecolodge. This is a small hotel, situated in a remote location at the end of an 8km untarmacked track. All its electricity comes from solar power. At night, it is (almost) entirely lit by candles. It’s a wonderfully atmospheric place.
Much more than just somewhere to stay, the Ecolodge normally offers a range of activities, such as guided hikes, explorations of the local archaeology, cooking classes and demonstrations, and opportunities to experience Bedouin culture. Not much of this is happening during Covid-times – we were the only guests. But I went on a short hike with one of the guides to watch the sunset and drink tea with a Bedouin shepherd, Abu Musa. He told me (in Arabic, translated by the guide) about the various eagles, vultures, buzzards, and owls that live in the Dana reserve – we had seen some of these during our earlier hike. Later, the guide took us up on the roof of the Ecolodge for some stargazing, making the most of the clear, dark skies.
After breakfast the following morning, we said goodbye to the Ecolodge, and drove a few kilometres down a dirt track to the entrance to Wadi Ghwayr. This was a different sort of hike to the previous day. Wadi Dana is straight, wide, and at this time of year, dry. Wadi Ghwayr, on the other hand, meanders between high cliffs, and a shallow stream runs through it. We hiked along the gravel bed of the wadi, crossing the stream at every turn. And because there is water, there is also much more vegetation: reed beds, acacia trees, and pink-flowering oleanders.
After many twists and turns, the wadi eventually opened out into a secluded valley where palm trees grow. Here, the rock changes to sandstone. A narrow canyon leads on to the upper part of the wadi. But this is where we had to turn back, to leave ourselves enough time to return to Amman before the 7pm curfew.
The full Wadi Ghwayr hike is highly recommended. It is 16km long, takes about 7 hours, and starts at the top of the valley, beginning with the narrow canyon. The water can be deep in places, and the route is more like canyoning than hiking.
We also have unfinished business with Wadi Dana. This is part of the long-distance walking path, the Jordan Trail. The section of the trail that goes from Dana to Petra is a 3-5 day walk that the National Geographic Magazine has listed among the 15 best hikes in the world. Trekking through spectacular scenery, camping beneath the stars, and then arriving finally at Petra – it promises to be an amazing experience. Good reasons to return to this part of Jordan soon.
Home in Amman 
I enjoyed reading your post and am delighted that you have unfinished business in the Dana area! Are you aware of the Dana Cooperative? It is a cooperative of 100 Bedouin families from the local community and works to protect the community’s cultural and natural heritage through socio-economic empowerment, including sustainable tourism. The Dana Biosphere Reserve was created on part of their customary land. I am a volunteer with the Cooperative.
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Hi Lorraine, thanks for your message. I had heard about the Dana Cooperative, but I’m interested in learning more about it. I’ll take a look at your blog.
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